The caring suncare experience
The trend of using facial skincare ingredients in suncare care is taking our industry by storm. Consumers in the know are already seeking out and enjoying the benefits that skin actives can bring to their make-up and haircare products — and now, this trend has extended to the world of suncare as well.
Protecting skin against harmful effects of UV radiation such as skin cancer and photoaging will always be cornerstones of suncare. And with good reason. However, the story doesn’t end there because UV radiation also induces DNA damage and oxidative stress, weakening the skin barrier and dehydrating the skin. The visible effects of these processes are varied and undesirable: fine lines and wrinkles, decreased elasticity, dark spots or an uneven complexion and excessive skin dryness, redness and irritation.
There is still a tendency to associate dedicated SPF products with sunburn, the beach and outdoor activity only. However, with consumers’ interest in skin health growing, as part of the broader trend for self-care and wellness, we have a golden opportunity to counter this perception.
As consumers' needs evolve, our suncare formulations proposals have evolved by including ingredients that target the beauty and skin health concerns people seek to address in their everyday skin care routines.
As the skin’s outermost layer, the skin barrier acts as a protective shield for the layers below. When functioning well, it is key to healthy looking and feeling skin, but UV radiation can disrupt this natural function, impairing its ability to retain moisture. This means that efficient hydration is essential to restore it and keep it strong, and PENTAVITIN® offers a highly relevant solution in this regard.
In vitro studies show that, thanks to its unique skin-binding action, PENTAVITIN® can reverse the five signs of dehydrated skin — roughness, dullness, flakiness, tightness, and redness — and the short and longer-term hydration boost it can deliver has been visualized and demonstrated on different skin types. However, the process of repairing the sun-damaged skin barrier involves more than just hydration. It is also essential to alleviate irritation and strengthen the epidermis to support hydration in the future.
Recently, dsm-firmenich, commissioned new in vitro studies to explore the potential of PENTAVITIN® beyond its hydrating power. The results provide compelling evidence that it has a significant restorative, soothing, and strengthening effect, as it targets and supports key proteins in these outermost layers of the skin.
The in vitro study analyzed eight key proteins associated with the skin barrier, which play different roles: some are associated with barrier repair and natural hydration, others with barrier recovery and strength, and some with skin redness. To detect the expression of these proteins, scientists used EpiKutis®, a laboratory-reconstructed 3D human epidermal model irradiated with UVB light. After administering PENTAVITIN® (at a concentration of 0.5%), the efficacy of this ingredient was evaluated through Immunofluorescence (IF), Immunohistochemistry (IHC), or ELISA. In all eight cases, PENTAVITIN® showed a significant beneficial effect, demonstrating its ability to support UV-irradiated skin barrier and reduce redness. The following, we showcase the findings for the specific proteins associated with barrier repair, hydration, and skin redness.