Protecting what matters

Replacing Homosalate for future-proof SPF formulations

Living in an internet age, surrounded by 24-hour rolling news, means that consumers have never had easier access to a wealth of information.

This ‘always-on’ climate has created better-informed individuals who consider more factors than their predecessors might have done before making even the simplest of purchasing decisions. 

Price and practicality are still key components, but environmental, health and societal concerns are also front of mind for today’s consumer. The rise of eco-conscious beauty products sits firmly within this movement, with consumers seeking cleaner, better and more sustainable solutions that contribute not only to their own wellness, but also preserve the health of the planet.

Use of Homosalate in suncare products

Consciousness of what people are putting in – and on – their bodies may not be a recent development, but scientific reassessment have cast previously trusted chemicals in a new light. One such dynamic shift is the use of Homosalate in sunscreen products. Utilized extensively due to its solubilizing characteristics and UVB absorption qualities, the chemical is now under scrutiny to assess whether it has any potentially harmful side-effects.

At the heart of this investigation are fears that Homosalate is a potential endocrine disruptor. Regulatory authorities have assessed the chemical in this respect which could be not confirmed, but other questions regarding the human safety have been raised. There also exists rising insecurity among consumers about the impact of Homosalate on the environment.

While the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety published advice that Homosalate will be restricted to face products only, many finished-product manufacturers will have started considering how to replace the chemical in their sunscreen formulations.

This challenge is three-pronged: finding an alternative that ensures good solubilization of crystalline UV filters; adding other UVB filters to reach the expected SPF and – perhaps most importantly in the current climate – selecting the right combination of UV filters to further improve the eco-profile of your formulations.

Solutions to replace Homosalate in your formulations

With 40 years’ experience in bringing together in-depth scientific knowledge, always-on innovation and a commitment to sustainability, DSM can help you find the right solution for your formulations. There are three main scenarios to consider if you are thinking about replacing Homosalate: one if you are already using Ethylhexyl Salicylate (PARSOL® EHS), one if you are not yet using Ethylhexyl Salicylate, and a third that avoids using salicylates altogether (Homosalate and PARSOL® EHS).

Figures 1, 2 and 3 show examples of commonly used formulations under each of these three scenarios. For each scenario, we show how Homosalate can be replaced using our Sunscreen Optimizer™ tool, in order to improve the eco-score while maintaining the necessary SPF and solvent properties.